Luxury Handbag Appraisal

We recently assisted a local client, who required insurance appraisals for several high end items, including a luxury handbag appraisal.

Chanel double flap classic handbag

Lady’s Chanel (France) 10” Medium Double Flap Classic Bag 11.12 GHW in quilted Black Caviar Leather, with Gold tone locking hardware and double shoulder strap, brown leather two section interior

Approx. 5¾” (14.61 cm) high, 2½” (6.35 cm) deep, 10” (25.4 cm) long

Originally purchased October 2023. Complete with original booklet, retailer stamped by the Chanel Boutique, cloth dust bag and original box and packaging

Luxury handbag appraisal

Few accessories embody the union of history, craftsmanship, and timeless elegance as perfectly as the Chanel Medium Double Flap Classic Bag 11.12 in quilted black caviar leather with gold hardware. Universally recognized and endlessly coveted, this handbag represents far more than a fashion statement—it is a cultural symbol, a piece of design history, and an heirloom that encapsulates the enduring vision of Gabrielle “Coco” Chanel and the modern refinement of Karl Lagerfeld.

The roots of the Chanel Classic Flap Bag trace back to 1955, when Coco Chanel introduced the 2.55 handbag—named after its date of creation, February 1955. It was revolutionary at the time: a hands-free bag with a shoulder strap, a design decision inspired by Chanel’s desire to liberate women from the inconvenience of clutching their handbags. Her intention was clear—to blend functionality with elegance, a principle that continues to define Chanel’s design philosophy.

Decades later, in 1983, Karl Lagerfeld—upon assuming the creative directorship of the house—reimagined the 2.55 with subtle yet defining updates. He added the now-iconic interlocking CC turn-lock clasp and made other aesthetic refinements that gave rise to the Chanel Classic Flap 11.12. This version quickly became a symbol of status, sophistication, and style across generations, cementing its position as the brand’s most recognized and desired handbag.

The Medium Double Flap—often referred to as the “10-inch” version—represents the most balanced and versatile size within the Classic Flap family. Measuring approximately 10 inches in width, 6 inches in height, and 2.5 inches in depth, it offers a silhouette that transitions effortlessly from day to evening wear. The proportion is perfect: large enough to hold daily essentials such as a phone, small wallet, keys, and lipstick, yet compact enough to maintain its ladylike allure.

The “Double Flap” structure, a hallmark of Chanel’s meticulous craftsmanship, refers to the two-layered interior construction. Beneath the exterior flap lies a secondary inner flap, which secures the contents and preserves the bag’s shape over time. The inner flap is also where one finds Coco Chanel’s discreet signature—an embossed logo reading “Chanel Paris” alongside the hallmark of French manufacturing excellence: “Made in France.”

Perhaps no other material has come to represent the enduring elegance of Chanel like black quilted caviar leather. This full-grain calfskin is specially treated to achieve a fine pebbled texture, renowned for its durability and resistance to scratches. Unlike the smoother lambskin, which exudes a delicate sheen but demands careful handling, caviar leather offers practicality without sacrificing luxury. It holds its structure exceptionally well, maintaining the bag’s crisp lines and softly padded appearance even with regular use.

The signature diamond quilting pattern, stitched with near-mathematical precision, is more than decorative. Coco Chanel drew inspiration from the quilted jackets worn by stable boys and jockeys in the equestrian world—a nod to her lifelong love of sport and practicality. Each diamond segment is perfectly proportioned to create a sense of balance, while the meticulous stitching ensures both aesthetic uniformity and structural integrity.

The GHW (Gold Hardware) version of the Classic Flap radiates an old-world glamour that perfectly complements the understated luxury of the black caviar leather. The warm, golden tone of the hardware—crafted from 24-karat gold-plated metal in earlier editions—contrasts beautifully with the deep black body of the bag. The interlocking CC turn-lock closure serves as both a focal point and a functional mechanism, securing the front flap with an effortless twist.

The chain strap, interwoven with matching leather, remains one of Chanel’s most enduring design signatures. It can be worn as a single long strap for crossbody or shoulder wear, or doubled for a more formal, shorter drop. This adaptability is part of what makes the Medium Double Flap such a versatile wardrobe staple.

Inside the Medium Classic Flap lies a symphony of thoughtful details that reveal Chanel’s commitment to both elegance and practicality. The inner flap conceals a small zippered pocket—said to have been designed by Coco herself to hide secret love letters. The main compartment is lined in Burgundy leather, a deep, rich hue that pays homage to the color of Chanel’s childhood convent uniforms. This contrast between the dark exterior and warm interior adds a subtle emotional dimension to the bag’s design.

Several pockets of varying sizes provide organized storage, including the “Mona Lisa” slip pocket on the rear exterior. Its curved outline mirrors the shape of a smile, an intentional touch of femininity and charm.

Every Chanel Classic Flap bag is the result of hours of artisanal labor, executed by skilled craftspeople in France and Italy. From the cutting of the leather to the assembly of the chain and clasp, each step is performed with precision and care. The quilting alone requires a specialized machine that ensures perfect alignment across the bag’s front, back, and flap. Each stitch must fall at exact intervals to maintain the geometric consistency of the diamond pattern.

Quality control is rigorous—bags that fall short of Chanel’s exacting standards are rejected. The result is a product that feels as luxurious as it looks: supple yet structured, tactile yet refined. This level of craftsmanship not only justifies the bag’s price point but also ensures its longevity, allowing it to be passed down as an heirloom piece.

Owning a Chanel Classic Flap is not simply about possessing a luxury accessory—it’s about participating in a legacy. Since its introduction, the 11.12 has adorned the arms of countless style icons, from Jackie Kennedy and Princess Diana to Keira Knightley and Beyoncé. Each has interpreted the bag’s timeless silhouette through her own lens, reinforcing its universal appeal.

The bag’s enduring relevance also lies in its ability to transcend trends. While fashion continually evolves, the Classic Flap remains steadfast—a rare constant in a world defined by change. Its understated elegance and flawless proportions allow it to complement virtually any ensemble, from casual denim to haute couture.

In addition to its aesthetic and historical significance, the Chanel Medium Double Flap 11.12 is renowned as a sound investment piece. Over the past two decades, Chanel has steadily increased the retail price of its Classic Flap collection, reflecting both inflation and the house’s positioning as an ultra-luxury brand. Consequently, pre-owned and vintage pieces have seen substantial appreciation in value. For collectors and fashion investors, the 10” black caviar GHW model remains one of the most sought-after variations.

The Lady’s Chanel 10” Medium Double Flap Classic Bag 11.12 GHW in quilted black caviar leather represents the pinnacle of luxury design—a perfect synthesis of history, functionality, and artistry. It is both modern and classic, resilient yet delicate, understated yet unmistakably iconic. From Coco Chanel’s original vision of liberating women’s style to Karl Lagerfeld’s contemporary reinterpretation, this handbag embodies the spirit of a brand that has defined elegance for over a century.

To own this bag is to carry a piece of fashion history—a symbol of independence, craftsmanship, and enduring beauty. Whether displayed on a shelf, worn on the shoulder, or passed down to the next generation, the Chanel 11.12 remains what it has always been: the quintessential expression of timeless Parisian chic.